Biometric Model and Classification Functions in Sport Climbing

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Artur Magiera, Igor Rygula

Scientists have finally taken a greater interest in sport climbing and are trying to define the specific nature and structure of this sport discipline. Previously, studies concentrated on individual factors which affect sport climbing performance. In connection with the diversity and complex structure of this activity, there is a deficiency of studies attempting to describe a given phenomenon in a multidimensional way, which would form the grounds for further training optimization activities. The main research problem of this study was to present a biometric model, describing the best result in “On Sight” (OS) style men’s climbing, represented by Contestant Development Index (CDI). Studies were carried out on a group of thirty Polish sport climbing contestants of advanced level, who had an average sport level of VI.4/4+ in OS style. The analysis included 44 variables obtained by means of tests assessing the level of conditioning, coordination, somatic and psychological properties of the examined subjects. This helped in the successful (R2=0.93) explanation of climbing performance with the help of 9 features which best describe this phenomenon. Technique, VO2AT, Fmax., OSB-P, Contr., RR strength, Ape index, Com. r.r, Flex. Analysed during the study was the structure of Contestant Development Performance, also through discriminate analysis and 3 classification functions calculated with its help. Their role here consisted in the detailed selection of contestants for groups of different climbing advancement. Ten variables: Technique, VO2AT, Fmax. , Contr., RR strength, Ape index, Com. r.r allowed to make a very good qualification of the subjects to particular groups, with special distinction of the first group (first advancement level) from the rest.
Key words
sport climbing, biometric model, classification functions

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